We leave Takayama and Shirakawa and head to Kanazawa, the final stop on our tour of Japan before returning to Tokyo. Kanazawa was an important center during the Edo period (1603–1868), governed by the powerful Maeda clan. Despite its significance, the city was spared from bombing during World War II, which is why many historical buildings remain intact. It is famous for gold leaf (kanazawa-haku), kaga-yuzen (a kimono dyeing technique), and Kutani ceramics. It's a paradise for lovers of Japanese craftsmanship.
Higashi Chaya
Higashi Chaya-gai (東茶屋街), which means “Eastern Teahouse District,” is one of the most charming and historically well-preserved areas in Kanazawa. It is a traditional neighborhood dating back to the Edo period (founded in 1820), when teahouses were exclusive venues where geisha performed for wealthy clients. The streets are lined with machiya, elegant two-story wooden townhouses with lattice façades (called kimusuko) and lanterns hanging at the entrances. They are beautifully preserved, and some are still in operation. You can visit the Shima Teahouse, now a museum, which showcases the original interiors and tools used by geisha. Or explore Kaikaro, which is still active and offers performances or geisha experiences by reservation. During the day, it’s perfect for strolling, taking photos, and visiting cafés and craft shops. In the evening, the district becomes quieter and more mysterious, as if frozen in time.
Kenroku-en garden
Kenroku-en (兼六園) is one of the most famous and celebrated gardens in Japan. Located in the heart of Kanazawa, right next to Kanazawa Castle, it is considered one of the "Three Great Gardens of Japan" (along with Kairaku-en in Mito and Kōraku-en in Okayama). "Kenroku-en" means "Garden of the Six Sublimities," a Chinese-inspired concept which states that a perfect garden must combine:
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Spaciousness
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Seclusion
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Artificiality
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Antiquity
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Abundant water
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Expansive views
These six elements, rarely found together, are harmoniously united in this garden.
The garden's iconic two-legged stone lantern, a symbol of Kenroku-en, stands beside the picturesque Kasumiga-ike pond. The trees, especially the Karasaki pines, are meticulously shaped. In winter, they are protected with yukitsuri (ropes stretched in a conical shape to shield the branches from heavy snow), creating a unique and striking visual effect.
Kanazawa castle
Kanazawa Castle (金沢城, Kanazawa-jō) is one of the city's most iconic landmarks and an important testament to feudal Japan. Located next to the famous Kenroku-en Garden, the castle has served as a historical and cultural center that shaped the political, military, and economic life of the region for centuries. The castle was built in 1580 by Sakuma Morimasa, a vassal of the powerful warlord Oda Nobunaga, following the conquest of the Kanazawa area. However, it soon came under the control of the Maeda clan, one of the wealthiest and most influential families during the Edo period (1603–1868). Kanazawa Castle was struck multiple times by devastating fires (notably in 1602, 1631, and 1759). Like many Japanese castles, the original wooden structure did not survive intact over the centuries. The main keep (tenshu) was lost in the 17th century and never rebuilt. Instead, the castle’s walls and defensive turrets (yagura) were reinforced. In the 2000s, the local government undertook extensive and historically accurate restoration work, based on old drawings and documents. The wooden reconstruction followed traditional techniques, without the use of modern nails, making the castle a rare example of faithful historical reconstruction.
With Kanazawa, our journey through the lesser-known destinations of Japan comes to an end. As we return to Tokyo, the conclusion of this travel story—now at its seventh "chapter"—draws ever closer. It has been an exhausting but unforgettable journey, one we will surely never forget.
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