Kyoto: the old capital's charm

Tramonto sul fiume Sumida

After several excursions to Osaka, Nara, and Hiroshima, it’s finally time to visit Japan’s former capital: Kyoto. Kyoto, which served as the imperial capital of Japan for over a millennium (from 794 to 1868), is the historical and cultural heart of the country. Originally founded as Heian-kyō, it was the political center of the empire and the cradle of refined Japanese culture, home to emperors, nobles, and samurai. Even after the capital was moved to Tokyo, Kyoto retained its prestige as a guardian of tradition: Buddhist temples, Shinto shrines, Zen gardens, and tea ceremonies still tell the story of its illustrious past. Walking through its streets feels like stepping across centuries of Japanese history.

Kyoto castle

Kyoto Castle, also known as Kyōto-jō, is one of the city's major historical landmarks. Built in 1603 during the Edo period by order of Shogun Tokugawa Ieyasu, the castle served as the Tokugawa clan’s residence in the imperial capital. Its imposing structure, surrounded by moats and gardens, is renowned for its elegant yet defensive architecture. Among its most fascinating features are the stone walls, wooden rooms adorned with exquisite paintings, and the “swallow’s nest” staircases, designed to prevent enemy infiltration. Although the castle was sadly destroyed during World War II and later rebuilt in the 1950s, it remains a significant cultural heritage site — a symbol of feudal power and Japan’s historical legacy. One of the most intriguing aspects of Japanese castles, including Kyoto Castle, is the “nightingale floor”, known as ugokashi-no-ma or more commonly tori-no-naku-yuka (鶏の鳴く床), which translates to “floor that chirps like a bird.” This was a clever defense mechanism: the floors were constructed to emit a chirping sound similar to that of a bird — alerting guards or samurai to the presence of intruders. The sound was produced by a combination of wooden planks and metal mechanisms that rubbed together when stepped on, creating a distinctive creak. These floors were not only functional in terms of security, but also represented an art of engineering — blending aesthetic design with practical defense. Beyond their alarm function, the floors also served a psychological purpose, deterring potential intruders and contributing to an atmosphere of invulnerability.

Sanjūsangen-dō temple

Sanjūsangen-dō, located in Kyoto, is one of Japan’s most fascinating Buddhist temples. Its name means “Hall with Thirty-Three Spaces Between Columns,” referring to the unique wooden structure of its long main hall, which, at 120 meters, is the longest in the country. Originally built in 1164 by order of Emperor Go-Shirakawa and rebuilt in 1266 after a fire, the temple is renowned for housing 1,001 statues of the goddess Kannon, the Buddhist deity of mercy. At the center stands a large statue of Kannon with eleven heads and a thousand arms, surrounded by a thousand smaller statues arranged in perfectly aligned rows—an awe-inspiring vision of serenity and spirituality. Out of respect for the sacred space, photography is strictly prohibited inside the hall. Every year, the temple also hosts a traditional archery competition, paying homage to an ancient samurai practice and adding to its deep cultural and historical significance.

Fushimi Inari 

Fushimi Inari Taisha is one of the oldest and most revered Shinto shrines in Japan, located at the base of Mount Inari, just south of Kyoto. Founded in the year 711 during the Nara period, it is dedicated to Inari Ōkami, the deity of rice, commerce, and prosperity. Over time, Inari worship expanded to include industry and business success, making the shrine an important spiritual site for farmers, merchants, and entrepreneurs alike. The shrine is especially famous for its over 10,000 vermilion torii gates, donated by companies and individuals as acts of gratitude. These gates form mesmerizing tunnels along the paths that ascend Mount Inari, which rises to about 233 meters. Each torii bears the name of its donor and the date of the donation, creating a striking visual archive of devotion that stretches across roughly 4 kilometers of trails. Today, Fushimi Inari Taisha welcomes more than 10,000 visitors per day, with massive crowds during Japanese New Year (Hatsumōde), when millions come to pray for good fortune in the coming year. Despite the heavy tourist traffic, one can still find moments of quiet and spiritual reflection, especially along the less-traveled paths in the early morning or late evening. Fushimi Inari is much more than a photographic attraction—it is a living symbol of the bond between religious tradition, natural landscape, and daily life in Japan. Foxes (kitsune) play a central role in the shrine and in the broader Inari faith. Considered sacred messengers of Inari Ōkami, they are not worshipped as deities themselves but are deeply respected for their spiritual role. In Shinto tradition, kitsune are believed to communicate between the human and divine worlds. Scattered throughout the shrine grounds are numerous statues of foxes, often depicted holding objects in their mouths—such as keys (symbolizing rice granaries), scrolls, jewels, or sheaves of rice—all representing wealth and fertility.

Philosopher's path 

Among the most enchanting places in Kyoto is the Philosopher’s Path (Tetsugaku no Michi), a peaceful pedestrian walkway that follows a tree-lined canal for about two kilometers, stretching between the Silver Pavilion (Ginkaku-ji) and the grand Nanzen-ji Temple. The path is named after the renowned Japanese philosopher Nishida Kitaro, who used to walk this trail daily, meditating in the quiet embrace of nature. Today, the path is lined with hundreds of cherry trees that form a tunnel of pink blossoms in spring, while in autumn the scenery turns into a vibrant palette of reds and oranges. Along the way, visitors can discover hidden temples such as Hōnen-in and Eikandō, as well as traditional-style cafés and artisan shops selling ceramics, incense, and local sweets. Although popular with tourists, the Philosopher’s Path retains a reflective and poetic atmosphere, making it an ideal place to experience the most intimate and authentic side of Kyoto.

Ginkaku-ji and Kinkaku-ji

Among Kyoto’s most iconic landmarks are two extraordinary temples: Ginkaku-ji (the Silver Pavilion) and Kinkaku-ji (the Golden Pavilion). Although their names suggest a direct connection, the two structures tell distinct yet equally fascinating stories. Kinkaku-ji, officially known as Rokuon-ji, was built in the late 14th century as the villa of Shōgun Ashikaga Yoshimitsu, and later converted into a Zen temple. Covered in gold leaf, the pavilion reflects in a tranquil pond surrounded by a garden that embodies the aesthetic ideal of reflected and impermanent beauty. It is one of the most visited sites in Japan, a true icon of classical elegance. Ginkaku-ji, or Jishō-ji, was constructed in the late 15th century by Yoshimitsu’s grandson, Ashikaga Yoshimasa, as his retirement villa. Although it was originally intended to be covered in silver leaf, that plan was never completed, leaving the natural wood exposed—an understated beauty that exemplifies wabi-sabi, the Japanese aesthetic of simplicity, imperfection, and harmony with nature. The Zen garden of Ginkaku-ji is especially known for its white sand cone, symbolizing Mount Fuji. Visiting both temples offers a glimpse into the two spiritual and aesthetic sides of Kyoto: the golden, lavish, and theatrical Kinkaku-ji, and the silver, quiet, and contemplative Ginkaku-ji.

Kyomizudera's temple

Kiyomizu-dera is one of Kyoto’s most celebrated and spectacular temples, a UNESCO World Heritage Site and a must-see for anyone visiting the city. Its name means “Pure Water Temple”, referring to the nearby Otowa Waterfall, whose three separate streams are considered sacred and believed to grant health, longevity, and academic success. Founded in 778 and associated with the Hosso school of Buddhism, Kiyomizu-dera is perched on the eastern slopes of the Higashiyama hills, offering breathtaking views over the city. Its most iconic feature is the wooden terrace, supported by over 100 tall pillars and constructed entirely without the use of nails. In spring and autumn, when cherry blossoms bloom or maple leaves blaze with color, the temple becomes the setting for truly unforgettable scenery. In addition to the main hall, visitors can explore the Jishu Shrine, dedicated to love and relationships, and stroll through the charming, historic streets of Sannenzaka and Ninenzaka, lined with traditional shops and artisan stalls. Kiyomizu-dera is a harmonious blend of art, spirituality, and history, offering a deeply immersive experience into Japanese culture.

A city rich in history, where temples take center stage alongside the remnants of buildings from Japan’s former capital. Navigating the endless lines of tourists can be challenging, but Kyoto is undoubtedly an essential stop on any journey through the Land of the Rising Sun.

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